Mentro 16. Challenges should be motivating. Rhossili, Gower 13th September 2015.

Mentro 16 Rhossili

What a difference a weekend makes. On Friday I was doubting if I would surf 21 times this year for my #Mentro21 project. Recovering from injury, facing cooling weather and shorter days, a flat start to Surftember was looking to scupper my plans. But a good swell came in on Thursday, and I was able to do the double, intimidating Sker Beach on Friday and a more mellow Rhossili on Sunday.

Unsung Hero

Today was great, some sun, offshore winds and a steady one foot swell. I was joined by Darren Green and Gareth Cook. It is always good to get out in the water with your mates. So two more surfs done, five to go, DimExcuses.

Advertisements

Mentro 3. Rhossili, Gower, 2nd May 2015

Dark & Offshore Rhossili

First bank holiday in May and where has the weather gone. In Gower the sea is 9.6C and the air is 11C. The swell is 6.5 foot but it is coming from a strange WSW direction resulting in 1 – 2 foot surf. There is also a 21mph unusual east wind.

I was in two minds to go surfing and get a Mentro 3 session for my #Mentro21 project to surf 21 times this year, when I saw pictures of the surf pumping on Instagram from the Welsh Surfing Championships in Freshwater West. It was enough to get me straight in the van and down Rhossili, Gower.

I was joined by my friend Gareth so I actually had some company for my third surf trip this year. We arrived at 2.30pm and the low tide had been on the way in for an hour. This what it looked like on the way in.

Rhossili Offshore Wind

It was 1 to 1.5 foot and that weird swell direction was pushing waves diagonally into the bay. That east wind was strong and offshore (regular readers will know I love an offshore wind). The swell and offshore wind were producing steep consistent lefts.

Glamorous Windy Changing

I was enjoying, being a goofy footer I prefer lefts as they are on my forehand (balls to wall, if you excuse the expression), until I lifted my board on a dismount and the wind launched it. That awful moment when you see a surfboard fly up in the air and know it is attached to your leg! I covered my face but took a big crack on the head. I have a nice graze and egg sized lump on my head to show for it. DimExcuses I surfed on with a bit of a headache. Here is how Rhossili looked when we came out an hour and a half later, dark and mean lines.

Dark Iines Rhossili

So 3 down 18 to go! You can follow the #Mentro21 project here, and I am planning my next trip, DimExcuses.

Mentro 2. Newgale, Pembrokeshire, 25th April 2015.

Surf Newgale

My second surf of the year was Newgale, Pembrokeshire. It was the second session in the Mentro21 project.

Molly Newgale

Molly and I headed for a cloudy Newgale where the 1 foot surf was suffering from a messy onshore wind.

Surf Patrol

Molly was keeping an eye on the changing conditions and also a watchful eye on our VW van.

VW Molly

A sudden change to a north westerly wind was cold but also produced offshore wind conditions that were resulting in some nice blue lines.

Blue Lines Newgale

The dogs were loving it on the beach, and Molly our French Bulldog was joined by Sadie the Spaniel and Rocky the Bichon Frise.

Dogs Newgale

At points we had the beach to ourselves.

Molly Newgale

There were literally thousands of little beetles washed up on the strand-line. I have no idea what these are or where they came from. I wonder if a swarm of them was blown out to sea? Maybe in the unusual winds we had recently that brought all that Saharan dust to the UK?

Washed up Beetles

It was incredibly sunny, but that north east wind was punishing. The dogs decided to steal some human warmth.

Sadie, Dennis and Rocky

Sadie acting innocence, keeping it calm, keeping it casual.

Sadie acting Innocent

I got an hour in the water, making the most of the hollow waves formed by the wind. There was a strong rip current out to sea, which combined with the offshore wind was quite hazardous. It was important to know where you were and check you weren’t drifting out to sea. The water was ok, but the changing out of a wet wetsuit in a wind blow car park was chilling. So we retired to the Duke of Edinburgh for some liquid refreshment.

Sharon & Susan

Even Molly had half a Guinness and black.

Half a Pint for Molly

The wind was still around on Sunday, colder and stronger, so no more surfing and we had another dog walk on the beach.

Newgale Dog Walk

So two surfs down in my #Mentro21 quest to go surfing twenty one times this year. You can read my first trip Mentro1 here. With May ariving soon there is no excuse to not get in the water more, DimExcuses.