Sometimes you need a hard, messy 3 foot swell with a short period to reset your arrogance levels back to zero, and remind you to respect the sea.
This was the forth session in my #Mentro21 project to surf at least 21 times this year. They are coming thick and fast now with only two days since my last session. What a difference two days makes. The wind had dropped and gone cross shore, enough to mess it all up but there were still rideable lefts and rights, only now they were three times the size!
I never pay much attention to period but I am learning that it can affect your surfing considerably. Period is the gap between waves, a long period is a big gap and short period a small gap. The longer period the better because you can ride a wave and then paddle back out through one or two waves. With a short period you can take a beating as you get hit by wave after wave as you paddle out.
Basically I took a beating. My friend Gareth joined me again for this trip and he was able to get outside through duck diving his performance short board, but even he got caught on the inside with wave after wave hitting him down. There is only so many cold waves smashing you on the head before it is time to go in.
That said I got to use my new National Trust membership again to park for free (or £30 a go if I never go again). Joking aside it is noticeable that the parking is better managed and the staff are brill.
My long suffering surf widow Sharon came with us this time time which meant Molly the French bulldog could come too. That dog is becoming a proper loon, she followed me out as we waded into the sea, swimming alongside us until the waves forced her to swim in. It also meant I can use Sharon’s photos here (tagged with her twitter username @WarmSand1).
The surf was far to big for Molly, so she and Sharon used the low tide to discovers shipwrecks that even I haven’t seen.
So finishing as I started, it is good to have a hard day in the sea, it makes you a better surfer. I always say in this blog know your limitations. Never underestimate the sea, DimExcuses.